pine cones, pomegranates, and wedding cake

I have been waiting to make a cake with this dark chocolate lacquer glaze since I first read about it on 
  Rose Levy Beranbaum's blog in early 2007, when she made a dark chocolate wedding cake for the celebrated chef Daniel Patterson (of Coi restaurant in San Francisco, a place I hope to go someday) with recipes she had been developing for Rose's Heavenly Cakes. Leave it to Rose to come up with a stunningly elegant and delicious glaze that needs no embellishment at all.

For friends getting married in the redwoods near Santa Cruz, I made two different flavors of cake both covered with the dark chocolate ganache undercoat and shiny dark chocolate lacquer glaze from the book.  The top and bottom tiers were my favorite dark chocolate cake recipe, (though I cannot wait to try Rose's new oil chocolate cake base that magically rises to the top in the last 10 minutes of baking).

The middle tiers were a moist yellow cake filled with the golden neoclassic buttercream mixed with raspberry puree and homemade satsuma plum jam.

Look at how differently the layers bake up in the exact same conditions in two different 9" dull finish aluminum pans.

Look at how happy I am in the midst of wedding cake havoc! I planned ahead and made as much in advance as practicable, so even though I had to re-bake the middle tier and make a frosting twice, I was able to unclench my jaw and enjoy the project.  Any comments about my awesome bandana, besides how awesome it is, will be promptly deleted.

Because chocolate absorbs odors so readily, I also cleaned the fridge and freezer thoroughly, and bought enough baking soda to keep a junior high school science fair full of erupting volcanoes. As much as the groom wanted me to make a garlic chocolate salsa cake, I insisted on boring old chocolate cake.

I iced them as smoothly as possible because Rose warned that the lacquer glaze would show every imperfection underneath. As I was filling and frosting the day before the wedding, I am glad I cut myself off to get some sleep, because I could have kept smoothing and even-ing indefinitely. 

One tip I will give to anyone trying the lacquer glaze from Rose's Heavenly Cakes, especially when making a larger quantity as for a wedding cake, is that the glaze seems to take a long time to reheat, but it is very easy to overheat. I re-heated my glaze from chilled, and it took over 20 minutes in a double boiler. Do not be discouraged by the seemingly immovable iceberg of glaze - it will reheat and pour perfectly. Once it is hot, it holds its temperature well, so if you overshoot the mark, stick your measuring cup in the freezer to bring it down to 82-84 degrees F. I got impatient when glazing my bottom square tier, and started pouring at 95F, and paid the price. It did not coat that well and required a lot of touching up. (Sorry for the flash; it's there to demonstrate the crazy shine). 

However, once I got the glaze to Rose's recommended temperature, the middle and top round tiers were coated in a quick even pour. While the glaze was setting, I went off to prettify and wash any trace of chocolate off before packing the car for the two-hour drive to the wedding site. Despite the venue being located off a windy mountain road notorious for its accidents and aggressive local drivers, we had a calm and lovely drive. In fact, the only casualty the cake sustained during the drive was due to the air conditioning (which I always have on during cake transport) which was cold enough to dull the glaze slightly. You can see that in this cocktail hour shot.

But once the cake had been stacked and sitting in the reception hall a while, the glaze softened a bit and the shine returned. We decorated the cake with pine cones collected by a little boy for the occasion. The branches with tiny pine cones on the end stretching to the four corners of the cake are from redwood trees, which surrounded us at this gorgeous mountain retreat.

(Not a great shot; just something to capture the glaze reviving.)

I got in and helped sauce the plates with a dollop of pomegranate-raspberry puree (pomegranates and pine cones were a motif of the day). The fruity, tannic brightness cut right through the rich and mellow chocolate ganache to wake up any parts of the tongue that might still be taking a cat nap. 

You might notice I left the top alone - I think it is austere, and starkly beautiful, perfect for a late fall evening in the mountains. It was a night of exuberant dancing punctuated with breaks to cool off in the brisk outside air, only to be surprised by how many stars and how much breath you can see. The couple had done so much to plan a fun celebratory weekend with friends and family that was relaxed and fun.

I was so overjoyed at how much people loved the cake.  Several people gave the king of compliments : "It was the best wedding cake I have ever had." Of course, the flavor we made less of? The flavor people wanted more of. 

Breakfast in the dining hall the next morning gave people even more opportunity to shower me with compliments, and I think I was starting to blush at one point. NAH. I enjoyed every second. 

Comments

[Jeannette]

A really beautiful cake, I admire your stamina in making it and getting it to the location! Jeannette

[evilcakelady]

this cake is so beautiful, and the lacquer glaze is amazing! a great account of the cake and the wedding, thanks for sharing.

[ButterYum]

What a lovely cake Rachel - you really did a great job. I can imagine how wonderful that shiny glaze must have looked in person. I can't wait for an opportunity to try it.

[Vicki]

Know those mountains well and this cake is perfect. It turned out beautifully.

[Jenn]

Rachel - beautiful cake. Do you know the 2 layers baked differently in the same condition? I had the same issue with the lemon luxury cake.

[Sugar Chef]

Beautiful job on the wedding cake and that glaze is stunning.

[Rachelino]

Everyone--Thank you so, so very much for your compliments. Compliments from my fellow bakers mean a lot. Everyone do try the glaze. I was very impressed. Also I did not mention that one of the reasons that the bottom tier might not have coated as well (besides being at the wrong temp) is also that is was square. Dunno.

Jeannette- I do think there was some stamina involved. I thought I would flop on my back at 9pm, but I ended up dancing in heels all night! Must have been adrenaline. My mother also says that she has been running after me since the day I was born and I have always had more energy that she could fathom. Of course once my head hits the pillow, I sleep like the dead.

Jenn- I saw that with your cake too. What's interesting is when I started making wedding cakes, I only bought one of each pan, and though they were the right type (dull finish alumnium pro pans) no manufacturer was marked on the bottom - only "9x2, USA" or similar- so it made it harder to get a matched set. I asked my local cake store and they said they get the pans from Washington state (so not Magic Line) but didn't tell me which company. Now I need a complete set of round and square for wedding cake projects, and I am finding as I buy what I think are identical pans to the ones I have at home (so I can bake two layers at once) and they are just NOT identical. I was very surprised at how different the crust was on these though.
I am thinking of getting a full set of Magic Line (which my local cake store doesn't sell). I want to support my local store, but it's strange they cannot tell me the manufacturer of the pans.

[Sherrie]

I did a post on RLB's site...but must say again, magnificent job. Now that I am doing more baking, I am finding some of my equipment inferior. I do also notice a huge difference in the way pans bake and also various locations in my oven. I now have the motto -- get the good stuff, because in the end if I cheap out or buy what's readily available W^l!o? (figure it out :)), I am totally unhappy in the end and have all of this extra, useless stuff. Enough ranting! Enjoy your getting back to normal...those wedding cakes are marathons -- all the prepreparation and of course the last minute decorating and smoothing (I am so utterly slow at this)-- they can certainly be a bit disruptive!

[Rachelino]

Sherrie, thanks again, and you made me think of something else really obvious. I am baking in a 50 year old oven that has not been calibrated. I am sure it will be nice to bake in a new oven. I am getting a new oven soon for the house, and am looking for a commercial kitchen to work out of. I have a place I use occasionally now, but there is only shared fridge space, and no cake of mine is going in a shared fridge (especially when the other businesses using the kitchen could be savory food cooks).

[Melinda]

Beautiful cake, Rachel! The glaze is so glam. I am sure no one has seen a wedding cake like it...unless they are a RLB fan.
I still am not sure how you lift those tiers on to the cake without marring the perfect surface. A steady hand and a prayer, I should think. So brave!
I can't believe you drove 2 hours with the wedding cake. I told Sherrie, if I had to drive a wedding cake in my car, I'd request a police escort! No joke, I'd be a nervous wreck!
Well done.

[Rachelino]

Thanks Melinda. I actually used a very heavy duty inflexible pancake turner and a small offset spatula as demoed in the wedding cake section of Rose's Heavenly Cakes. I think I got the perfect turner for the task though - look how large it is! http://www.surlatable.com/product/things+cooks+love+oversized+turner.do?keyword=turner&sortby=ourPicks
I highly recommend it.

[Marie]

Can you take one more compliment? When you talked about the chocolate-pomegranate wedding cake, I thought it sounded magnificent, and now that I see it, I'm sure! What a great thing to do, and how great that we have photography to memorialize something that probably disappeared in minutes.

[Rachelino]

Thank you Marie. I can definitely take another compliment. I worked really hard on it! :)

[catering]

Wow! i like the cake this is so delicious i want that i can also make my own cake for my wedding. Keep posting!

winnie

[Paul]

The cake looks tremendous - very professional!

You are lucky to have satsuma plums. They are one of the older varieties and sadly not planted much any more in my area. I think they are the best of the plums - wonderful flavour.

[Karine]

Wowow you did an amazing job with your cake! Thanks for sharing :)

[Diana von Welanetz Wentworth]

They say there are cooks, and then there are bakers. I'm a cook, but I applaud you! Bravo!

[suzy campbell]

what a talented neice. i am so lucky...

[Rachelino]

Aww....thanks Auntie Suzy. I swear I didn't pay her to write that, folks! :)

[ps3 manette]

Thank you so much. Indeed the glaze seems to took a long time to reheat, but it was very easy to overheat. I re-heated my glaze from chilled, while it took over 30 minutes in a double boiler. I got it done perfectly.

[adelina]

will there be a way for me to try out this glaze recipe? I've been working on a few and haven't found one that I really like! Yours looked absolutely beautiful!!!

Thanks!!!

[Karin Baumgardner]

Oh Rachel! Such a beautiful wedding cake! Just found your wonderful blog today while reading HCB and various others - awesome!!
I just tried the Lacquer Glaze myself over the holidays - to finish a Chocolate yule log filled with Maple Mousse... didn't take any photos of it tho - as there were too many imperfections in the surface for my liking. Tasted fab - and I look forward to working with this glaze more in future! BEST shot is the one of you with the babuschka on your head!!! LOL!! That is my personal signature "look" while I am working the kitchen too, as I can't function with hair hanging everywhere(YUK!)! I bake at my church and everyone knows me - I'm the babuschka baking girl! That is such a cute coincindence! If I had a photo of me in it I would send it! - Kuchenbaaker

[jeni]

Hello, I just saw your posting today. this is such a beautiful cake!! I am baking a wedding cake as well and is trying to test some cake recipes. i'm going to try Flo Braker's chocolate cake you posted on your site. (thank you!!)

Did you have to re-adjust baking powder levels when baking the large layer? I am wondering, now that i read Rose's books...

[Rachelino]

Jeni- I did not have to adjust the baking powder, and it worked beautifully! You are reminding me why I must always keep notes on these cakes so I can remember precisely what I did the last time. I did use cake strips around the edge so it didn't dome in the middle. I think with a large square layer there is a bigger chance of the corners drying out.

[jeni]

Very good to know. I baked the test layer yesterday and it's not sitting it the office waiting to be judged and eaten =)

in this case, this means i can bake another rose's cake without worrying about the baking powder/soda?

thank you!

[jeni]

Sorry about the multiple posts.. The cake is good and very delicate. I brushed it with some espresso syrup last night but i didn't think it needs it at all..

[generic viagra]

hello.

the wedding is so special ... I love weddings ... so much sweetness is reflected in these activities ... thousand congratulations to all those people who just starting their commitment and wish them much happiness